Tuesday, December 18, 2012

May as well give this a shot-

Any mechanics want to weigh-in on why an `03 S-10 doesn't want to start?

It ran fine until I turned it off to check on something at the job, and just wouldn't start again.
It turns over, but seems to be a lack of spark---or the fuel pump finally went out,since I don't hear it anymore....



UPDATE-
Weds. 6:47PM

Thanks for all the suggestions.

About the only thing I had time for today was to check the schrader valve and I got a good squirt of fuel from it.
Didn't have time for anything else after working 11 hours and getting it moved to our company yard.
Now I can work on it over the week we have off  or get it towed to somewhere I can trust the mechanic.

11 comments:

  1. Check the fuel pump relay first, you have several relays in the block on my s-10 4 of them are the exact same so you can just switch either the ABS relay or I think it's the airbag relay. If it still doesn't start, then yup it's the pump, and I did mine last year. I will NEVER EVER do that again. I'll PAY someone to do it. I dropped the tank like normal, right it took 5 hours to finally get the tank down without air tools, getting it back in I had to get 2 other people to help, even with the tank being empty it's so ungainly and awkward that with 3 people and a hydraulic jack we still almost didn't get it in right.

    So if it is the pump pay a mechanic the $150.00 to do it and buy your own pump from Rock Auto, O'reilly's, Autozone and Advanced autoparts wanted almost $300 for the pump, I got mine from Rock for just under $200 with shipping.

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  2. GMs with electric pumps also have a bypass circuit you can use to give voltage directly to the pump with a jumper wire. It's so you can check fuel pressure.

    There should also be a schrader valve on the fuel rail someplace. Cycle the key a couple times between run and off, turn it off and see if you get fuel squirting out from the valve when you push the plunger.

    If you have pressure, look elsewhere...

    Do a search for your year, model and walbro fuel pump. $150 for the pump in my Biscayne and GM only has about three different in-tank pumps and they're all the same price.

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  3. Thanks Angus- I'll give that a try.

    @ Greylock- I've heard it's a lot easier to pull the bed and get at it from the top.
    Which I'll do at Lackland because that's where it is and so is the backhoe and tools..plus we're off all next week.

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  4. if not the pump, then likely the crank sensor.

    Again, pay a mechanic. Worth the money.

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  5. Before that try replacing the inline fuel filter. If it clogs symptoms are similar to bad pump.

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  6. First thing is fuel pressure. If you don't get a squirt out of the schrader valve, there's no fuel pressure and the pump or relay or fuse is bad.

    Next take an old spark plug and connect one of the wires to it, and let it rest on the metal of the block while you crank, make sure you have spark.

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  7. A lot of good answers, but fuses are strange things. They can work forever, then you don't check it, and vibration has caused it to blow. That's where I'd start.

    As far as finding out about the spark, if you have a distributor, with one coil, the spark at any plug should be a fat and blue. Thin and orange isn't acceptable. Been there, have the t-shirt. Multiple coils should still allow it to start, even if one is bad.

    One other thing is a timing belt. If your engine is equipped with one, they can go out in seconds. Again, if you have a distributor, have someone turn the engine over, while you watch the rotor. If it doesn't rotate, the timing belt needs replacing.

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  8. Tap the fuel tank with a hammer. Sometimes when the pump goes bad a little jolt will make it work again. If it starts after that you know its the pump.

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  9. Listen for a whine when the pump energizes. If you don"t hear a whine, check the fuse. If fuse is good, then go with relay. If relay is good then it probably is fuel pump. Take the bed off..it is easier than you think. There are usually 4 torque bolts. Also unhook the fuel neck from the bed and unhook the tailights. After that, you will need a couple of people to lift bed off. Easier than dropping tank.

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  10. According to the dealership who wanted to charge me $750 to change the pump, they just remove the bed of the truck to do it. My mechanic and I had a talk and since I've already dropped mine through the bottom, if he had to do it, he would do the same, then again he has a lift and a transmission hoist to use, I don't. Everyone else has made good points, but if you turn the key and don't hear the pump switch out the relays and check the fuse. Then proceed from there.

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  11. Son's pickup just went through similar issues. Eliminated compression and spark by the expedient of squirting a shot of starter fluid into the air intake. Truck fired up just fine, so it had to be a fuel issue.

    There was SOME flow from the Schrader valve on the fuel line, but not enough. $750 got somebody else to come get the truck, take it to the shop, fix it, and call me when it was over.

    MC

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